How to Pack a Tramping Pack NZ — Load Distribution, Weight and What Goes Where
Featured image: Photo by Michal Klajban / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
How to Pack a Tramping Pack — Load Distribution, Weight and What Goes Where
How you pack your tramping pack matters as much as what you put in it. A poorly packed pack feels heavy, unstable, and exhausting within the first hour. A well-packed pack distributes weight efficiently, keeps your centre of gravity where it needs to be, and makes a full day on trail genuinely manageable.
This guide covers load distribution principles, what goes where, pack weight guidelines, and the common mistakes that catch people out on the first day.
The Golden Rule — Heavy Close to Your Back
The fundamental principle of pack loading: heavy items should sit close to your back, positioned between shoulder blade and waist height.
When heavy weight sits far from your back (towards the back of the pack), it creates a lever arm that pulls you backward, forces you to compensate by leaning forward, and puts enormous strain on your lower back and shoulders. Moving that weight close to your spine — and vertically centred — dramatically reduces this effect.
In practical terms: food, water, tent (if carrying), and other heavy items go in the middle of the main compartment, positioned against the back panel. Light, bulky items go to the outside of the compartment and toward the top and base.
What Goes in the Base
The base of your pack (below the main compartment, or the bottom third of the compartment) is for items you don't need during the day:
- Sleeping bag — in its stuff sack or a dry bag
- Sleeping mat — if it fits inside (many roll or fold mats fit in the base of a 50-60L pack)
- Camp clothing — dry layers you won't access until camp
- Hut shoes or camp footwear
Keep the base for light, bulky, rarely-accessed items. Sleeping bags are light but take space — they're ideal base items.
What Goes in the Main Compartment
The main compartment carries the bulk of your load. Layer it with the heaviest items closest to your back:
- Against the back panel (heavy zone): Food, cooking fuel, stove, water (if not on hipbelt), tent body and fly
- Middle section: Spare clothing, dry bags of wet weather gear
- Outer and upper section: Lighter clothing layers, sleeping pad (if inside), trekking pole grips
Use dry bags or waterproof stuff sacks to organise clothing into groups. Colour-coded dry bags make finding gear quick — essential when you arrive at the hut in the dark.
The Deuter Aircontact Core 50+10 is a well-regarded example of a mid-to-large tramping pack with a structured back panel system that supports this kind of loading. Its internal frame transfers weight to the hipbelt effectively when loaded correctly.
What Goes in the Top Lid
The top lid (the floating lid pocket above the main compartment) is your go-to storage for anything you need fast access to:
- Snacks for the day
- Map and compass
- Sunscreen, insect repellent, lip balm
- First aid kit or blister kit
- Headlamp and extra batteries
- Pack rain cover (if using one)
- Emergency items — PLB, emergency bivvy
Keep the lid light. Many trampers overload the lid, which raises the pack's centre of gravity too high and creates a top-heavy feel.
What Goes on the Outside
Outside attachment is useful but should be kept minimal. Items strapped to the outside of your pack catch on vegetation, get wet in rain, and shift the load distribution.
- Trekking poles: Strap to the side webbing when not in use. Hiking poles are easy to access quickly.
- Wet gear: A wet rain jacket or wet gaiters can go in a mesh side pocket or outside strap if you don't want them dripping inside.
- Sleeping mat (foam): If it doesn't fit inside, strap horizontally across the base or vertically to the side. Avoid high outside attachment that raises your centre of gravity.
- Tent poles: Can go in the side sleeve if the pack has one.
Avoid hanging items from the pack that swing free or snag. NZ bush tracks are tight in places, and a dangling item will catch on every overhanging branch.
Pack Weight Guidelines
There's a well-worn rule of thumb that pack weight should be no more than 20–25% of body weight. In practical terms for most NZ trampers:
- 15–18kg: The practical upper limit for most trampers on standard multi-day hut trips. Anything over 18kg becomes genuinely taxing over a full day.
- 12–15kg: Comfortable for most fit adults on moderate NZ tracks. Achievable with careful gear selection.
- Under 12kg: Lightweight territory. Requires deliberate ultralight gear choices but dramatically improves day-to-day comfort and speed.
For alpine routes, technical terrain, or trips where you need to move fast, aim toward the lighter end. For comfort-focused Great Walks hut trips where you're not pushing for speed, a slightly heavier pack is entirely manageable.
Hip Belt Fitting — Where Most People Go Wrong
A correctly fitted hipbelt transfers 60–80% of pack weight from your shoulders to your hips. Most people wear the hip belt too low — around the hip bone rather than on the iliac crest.
To fit it correctly:
- Load the pack fully — fitting with an empty pack gives a misleading result.
- Put the pack on and position the hipbelt so the padded section wraps around your iliac crest — the bony shelf of your pelvis, roughly at belly button height.
- Buckle and tighten the hipbelt until it's snug and sitting stably, not loose.
- Now tighten the shoulder straps until they follow the curve of your shoulders — they should have contact but not be pulling the pack away from your back.
- Adjust the load lifter straps (the short straps at the top of the shoulder straps) — they should angle upward at about 45 degrees.
Re-check the fit after the first few hundred metres when the pack has settled.
Rain Cover vs Dry Bag Liner
In NZ conditions, a rain cover alone is not adequate protection for your gear. Rain covers are useful for reducing surface saturation, but they fail in several ways:
- High winds can blow a rain cover off
- Water runs under the cover along compression straps and buckles
- Sustained driving rain eventually penetrates
A waterproof dry bag liner inside your main compartment is the more reliable solution. Line the interior with a large dry bag before packing, and cinch it tight over your gear. Your pack body can get wet; your gear stays dry.
For a belt-and-braces approach in wet NZ conditions: use a liner inside and a rain cover over the top.
Common Packing Mistakes
- Heavy items at the bottom: Makes the pack feel like an anchor. Move them up.
- Heavy items too far from the back: Creates a lever arm pulling you backward.
- Lid packed too heavy: Top-heavy instability on rough terrain.
- Not using dry bags: One unexpected submersion or sustained rain makes wet gear miserable by night two.
- Overpacking: Every 500g you cut from the pack is felt on every step up every hill. Be ruthless about what actually gets used.
- Not testing the pack loaded before the trip: Adjustments to fit are much easier at home than on the track.
Browse our full range of hiking backpacks, and if you're selecting your first pack, read our detailed hiking backpack guide for more on sizing and fit.